I was automatically subscribed to Bon Appétit when Gourmet magazine died. At some point I might have even renewed that subscription, because it’d become a tradition to hop into a steaming hot bath and pore over the recipes while getting giggly drunk on gin or wine and eating ice cream. Every time one landed in my mail box it screamed, “bath time!” It meant I had to set aside an evening just for me and my magazine: a pretty special date.
I’m not renewing this subscription for other reasons, but I thought I’d share what flipping through the most recent issue felt like. It felt a little icky. It felt like Adam Rapoport, the former style editor of GQ magazine, had taken over a cooking magazine. The magazine now not only has more than ever to do with meat, but it also has more than ever to do with… meat. I present to you, the assholes of Bon Appétit February 2013 (having mainly to do with the advertisements).
Oh wait a second…
Damn straight, it’s the Pacific Northwest, where the people still have their wits about them. No assholes on this page. Men tattoo women’s names on their arms… and sport impenetrable beards… and always look so familiar… You can buy yourself all those things on this page and close your eyes and you will *actually* be in Portland or Olympia or Seattle. It’s true. And just look at that Sweetpea Farmers Market Bike! That’s like my bike, except about $3600 nicer. One can dream.
Onwards!
[I will totally ignore the thin woman on page 33 who evidently lives on smoothies and big salads, beans, lentils, and hummus, while finding time to go to bootcamp seven days a week and raise a couple children. I think her husband might mean something else when he says “Ooooh” when she takes her clothes off. I think he means, “you need to eat something.” And she says, “Sorrrry!” Dammit, I thought this was a COOKING and EATING magazine!]
…lots of pages with really yummy food on them…
This magazine is cooked.
What is it with all those images of men who are detached from their female companions? I would think cooking magazines would largely be for ladies, and that they especially would like to see these hunks engaged with women. With eye contact, for example.* Even if this magazine is largely for men, it seems like showing images of men connected with their companions would be a little healthier. It wasn’t that I was seeking this experience out, but the Lexus ad a few pages in really struck me, and then I kept seeing a similar pattern through the remaining ads.
Take a gander… let me know what you think.
- Am I being over-sensitive? (I can be just that.)
- Do you also think the ads featuring men and women are all styled a bit similarly?
- What do you think these ads say? Go subliminal.
*Every woman in these ads is engaged, with friendly eye contact.
Postscript (1/24/2013): I’ve noticed some things since writing this post.
One, there are 35 ads in this issue, and 6 (17%) are for wrinkle creams, botox, or eyelash-growth potion. I’ve shown you four other ads here.
Two, I think in this case I am actually seeking the “male gaze.” Either that, or these ads are such a desperate, scrambling attempt at avoiding the Male Gaze trap, that they completely overlook (if not snub) the female participants, while still including them. But the lead roles in these ads are played by men. Men who can’t have my gaze, because they are presumably attached. And because… they are assholes. Giggle.
Postscript (3/27/2013): This Banana Republic ad came in the March issue. It infuriates me because again, the body language is ALL OFF. Why is she hugging his back? What is he doing with his hands? I want to punch his smug face! And above all, what if anything does this woman EAT? I want to get her into a hospital bed and put a feeding tube in her. Who approves these ads for a cooking magazine?! Ugh.
Lauren, Ephemerratic
Gin OR ice cream? Why or? I’m thinking gin with a scoop of fruity ice cream would be perfect. (I will continue to read the rest of the article, but that forced choice totally threw me.)
Lauren, Ephemerratic
Ah, I read your story twice (as it was quite hilarious) and I see now your choice was between gin or wine. The ice cream, rightly, goes with both.
littlepackage
If you were here, we’d have PASTA! (and wine) and shoot shit out our noses laughing at all the strange scenarios these ads could present. Then we could have chicha ice cream…!
Chikashi
I stopped looking at magazine adverts long time ago and hardly ever read the articles any more. It’s not really surprising that most magazines are not making any money these days. And, I think Madison Avenue is largely comatose these days. But, admit it, you are having too much fun ripping apart those adverts. 😉 Gin poured over lavender ice cream, please.
littlepackage
You’re right about ads. I wouldn’t normally pay attention to ads but I like to prolong my bath date as long as possible so I do literally PORE over it. Every inch. Ladies might get a better subliminal kick out of this magazine if all those hunks were showing any interest. It’d be like a romance novel AND a cooking magazine in one. As it is, it’s a bit like GQ and a cooking magazine in one. And I love meat, but geez they’ve been cramming so much meat into every issue — it’s madness. At least they managed to squeeze in some kale on the spread about the Pacific NW. Heh.
You’re also right, I had a good time with my bath date and gin. I had to share. But poured over lavender ice cream? I just might have to try that?! Also, I’ve been wondering why I’ve never heard of wine ice cream. Winecream?
Chikashi
Sauternes or champagne / prosecco flavoured ice cream might not be so bad. You might be onto something… But you have to come up with a better name than winecream. Perhaps something made-up and vaguely exotic sounding like Haagen Daz. That name always cracks me up.
You’ve mentioned meat so many times that I’m starting to think that you may not be referring only to food…