Making Steve Roper Proud

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The Sierra High Route is a 195-mile long route charted through the backcountry — and along some existing trails — of the High Sierra Nevada. It was devised by noted Sierra climber and historian Steve Roper, and originally, discreetly, published in book form in 1982. I first learned about it in 2013 during my thru-hike when the wonderfully thought-full hiker “Manchurian1.” Manchurian hiked a section of the Sierra High Route between Reds Meadow and Tuolumne, I’m not sure how much of it he conquered but I remember him telling me it wasn’t too hard, and that the only sign of humanity he found out there was a deflated helium balloon.

When the Pacific Crest Trail and it’s burgeoning “culture” totally disenfranchised me earlier this year, I made a rather knee-jerk decision to ditch the PCT and instead tackle that remote and “not too hard” Sierra High Route.

The only thing I might have changed about how I tackled it might be to have started at Cedar Grove (the Southern Terminus) when I had a chance. It would have involved some tricky hitchhiking from Fresno out the narrow and winding highway 180 to its very end, or perhaps a ride from an acquaintance, but that just didn’t happen. What happened is I still north bounded it, but in a top-down fashion. That broke the trail up into chunks such that at the end of each chunk, I ended up in a place I had already been, was familiar with. It also disjointed time and space, and broke up my thoughts about the trail and its process into… chunks.

And because when a HUGE lightning fire broke out near Cedar Grove on July 31st, my chances of hiking the last chunk, the southernmost 30 miles, faded further into the smoke each day, until the trailhead area was officially closed for the season, and snow hit the Sierra twice in early October. I hate giving excuses for not being able to finish things, but there you go: an excuse.

It’s not over ’til I say it’s over

June 13-15th: Tuolumne Meadows to Twin Lakes
July 15-19th: Reds Meadow to Tuolumne Meadows
July 24-27th:Piute Pass to Reds Meadow
August 16-20th: Taboose Pass to Piute Pass
October 18-22nd: Onion Valley to Roads End and Roads End to Taboose Pass and Taboose Pass to Highway 395
Total trail miles: ~160 of 195 (Roper’s main suggested route almost completed)
Total miles hiked (access trails included): Approximately 178

With the Cedar Grove area still officially closed and a fire burning less than 2 miles from the Copper Creek (SHR) trail but wanting to hike something ridiculous and epic for my 28th birthday, I set out on a hike “around” Mount Williamson (14,380ft). While up there I figured I’d also bag Mount Tyndall (14,025ft). That trip is what this blog post is about. That ~30 mile trip completed My Sierra High Route hike (differentiated from “A Sierra High Route hike”), and would definitely make Steve Roper proud.

Sierra High Route Part 1?

September 25-28th: Shepherd Pass to Tyndall to Williamson down Bairs Creek

The Sierra High Route gave me quiet times and tough times, and it gave me a lot of insight into hiking and backpacking culture, and how it evolves, but it was my own re-route of the Sierra High Route that gave me the biggest reward. Adventure isn’t picking out someone else’s route and hiking it according to their GPS routes and descriptions and itineraries and advice. That’s a venture. Adventure is pulling out your maps and connecting the dots yourself (or maybe even taking a wrong turn despite yourself, or maybe even taking a wrong turn on purpose). And sharing those dots with other people is setting them down your path and preparing that path for eventual spoil — as eventually, your path will become popular if it is special. As a man named Jim said to me on top of Mount Williamson,

Smart surfers don’t share their secret surf spots.

Especially in the day of social media, it is perhaps important for us to hold these sacred cards closer to our chests. Yes, we want to encourage other people to break out — get outside — however, we really have no idea who we are sharing with, and not all people understand LNT (Leave no Trace). So few people get out to the woods and spend any time there that… so few people know how to act in the woods. And yet everyone wants a “really epic” photograph on their social media profile. So, even as just last night I spent time at the bar listening to a man recall his recent night and a day shoeless and in cotton clothes lost and stranded without maps or water or food or overnight gear near the Whitney summit at 14,000 feet, I have so many other similar stories of people who set off on adventures they probably fished out of the social media sea, and sliced into, unprepared. They unwittingly spoiled so many other peoples’ experiences.

“The fool doth think he is wise, but the wise man knows himself to be a fool.”

Content with a password

When you see other people’s adventures and feel inspired to go out, please use the LNT principles like a checklist before heading out and before returning home. In regards to this blog post, pay special attention to #1 and #7. A lot of mistakes are born of overconfidence, and most “dick moves” are simply ignorance. We all have to learn sometime!

LNT PRINCIPLES

  1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

  2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
  3. 
Dispose of Waste Properly

  4. Leave What You Find
  5. 
Minimize Campfire Impacts

  6. Respect Wildlife
  7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Using the LNT principles really will help keep hikers and explorers out of most messes.

Without Further ado – Photos!

I will show you some epic pictures from my birthday party that I hope will make you want to get outside.

sierra sunrise from 395
A wonderful sunrise shining on the Sierra from over the Inyo range. I had to pull over to capture this!
road 13s08
Headed down Foothill Road – 13S08 – toward the gaging station and pack trail parking area.
A first look at Williamson from Shepherd Pass trail. A bit daunting!
A first look at Williamson from Shepherd Pass trail. A bit daunting!
Shepherd Pass trail feature
A very distinct, gate-like feature that reminded me of “The Neverending Story” Riddle Gate. They had unleashed a huge washout down the trail.
Shepherd Pass
Close to the top of Shepherd Pass, looking back down

And then I climbed Mt. Tyndall. I recommend not fussing too much about how to get up. Take one of the first two ribs from the ridge on the right (northwest) and follow use trails up!

Diamond Mesa Sierra Nevada
Diamond Mesa from the toes of Mt. Tyndall
Mount Versteeg and Trojan Peak from Mount Tyndall (looking south-south-west).
Mount Versteeg and Trojan Peak from Mount Tyndall (looking south-south-west).
Mount Williamson
Mount Williamson from Mount Tyndall.
Panorama on top of Tyndall
Nano took this cool panorama of me standing on the boulder perched at the tippy top of Tyndall.
Nano headed back down Tyndall. This ultra-marathoner summited via Shepherd pass in one day. Turns out I'd met him in the Sierra before - it's a small world!
Nano headed back down Tyndall. This ultra-marathoner summited via Shepherd pass in one day. Turns out I’d met him in the Sierra before – it’s a small world!
Cowboy Camping in Williamson Bowl
I went to bed under a tarp but had to take it down at 1am due to wind. Brrr!
Mount Tyndall from Mount Williamson
Started up Williamson; view back on Tyndall.
Jim DeRose on Williamson
Jim climbed Williamson with me. This year since June he rode a double century, ran a 50K mountain ultra, swam a 10K marathon swim, swam across SF Bay under the GG Bridge, and bagged another 14er.
Mount Versteeg
Mt. Versteeg and Lake Helen of Troy from the Wililamson chute.
White Mountain from Mount Williamson
Looking northeast, White Mountain from the window at the top of Mt. Williamson.
Mount Williamson summit
A panoramic view from the top of Mt. Williamson
Lone Pine from the top of Williamson
Lone Pine and the tippy tops both Bairs Creek descents from the Mt. Williamson plateau.
George Creek headwaters and Vacation Pass
George Creek Headwaters and vacation pass from the long ridge leading down from the lower Williamson plateau.
Mt. Williamson and Inyos
I need to hike down the left side of this and it looks like a cliff. The answer was to lose elevation slowly while headed forward.
A view back up on the ridge  and class 3-4 cliffs I descended. Lots of signs of Bighorn Sheep but no sightings.
A view back up on the ridge and class 3-4 cliffs I descended. Lots of signs of Bighorn Sheep but no sightings.
Bairs Creek
Not a use trail in sight. I tried and tried to find any use trail but never found one until I was within a mile of the trailhead the next day.
I destroyed myself coming down. That's not blood though, it's berry juice from bushwhacking.
I destroyed myself coming down. That’s not blood though, it’s berry juice from bushwhacking. The athletic tape is to prevent a hotspot from becoming too bad a blister.
Chief Pete at Shepherds Pass trailhead
The sweetest sight – home sweet home! My loop of Mt. Williamson is complete.

Notes

 
I gave Patrick the name “Manchurian” as a tongue-in-cheek joke when I met him at Barrel Springs on the PCT and found out he was from Manchester, England. He thought I might be stupid, but Mancunian was too obscure and obvious.

Content with a password

I love you mom!

  1. I gave Patrick the name “Manchurian” as a tongue-in-cheek joke when I met him at Barrel Springs on the PCT and found out he was from Manchester, England. He thought I might be stupid, but Mancunian was too obscure and obvious. Hello Manchurian if you ever read this! ↩︎

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2 Comments on “Making Steve Roper Proud”

  • fenu

    Thank you for all of this. Excellent thoughts, wonderful pictures. Congratulations and Happy Birthday!

    • Caroline

      A belated thank you!

Comments are closed.